Chile Cumin Butter for Winter Squash

The flesh of baked winter squash has a soft texture and sweet, plain flavor that is the perfect backdrop for spicy chilies and other assertive complements. Don’t limit yourself to acorn and butternut squash for this recipe--check out the uncommon, often organically grown varieties that show up at many farmers’ markets during autumn. They have whimsical names like Buttercup, Delicata, Turk's Turban and Pink Banana, and vary in sweetness and texture.